Monday, January 17, 2011

Brown Butter Buttermilk Biscuits

Here we go, folks, another biscuit recipe! Aren't you excited? Well, I am, cause these biscuits are right near perfect! Rising nice and tall, great texture, and awesome 'keepability'. By this I mean, biscuits, as a rule, are best straight out of the oven. However, these did very well on day two warmed up in a 300 degree oven. I was very pleased.
The original recipe uses parsley and sage but I always like to try the plain buttermilk biscuits before I start adding flavors. The addition of the brown butter as the glaze was a last minute call.
As you all know, I've tried quite a few biscuit recipes, most call for baking at a higher temperature, but these specify 350 degrees which of course means the baking time is increased. This recipe also uses egg which is pretty rare for biscuit recipes as well.
I really love this recipe and will consider it my go-to biscuit recipe until I find another recipe to replace it! And let's be honest, that could be at any minute.

Adapted from Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery and Cafe by Joanne Chang

2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 to 10 pieces plus 2 tblsp, melted
1/2 cup cold buttermilk
1/2 cup cold heavy cream
1 cold egg

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Using a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt on low speed for 10 to 15 seconds or until combined. Scatter the butter pieces over the top and beat on medium low speed for about 1 minute, or until the butter is broken down and the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

In a small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, cream, and until thoroughly combined. On low speed, pour the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture and beat for 10 to 15 seconds or until dough just comes together. there will be still be a little loose flour mixture at the bottom of the bowl.

Remove the bowl from the mixer stand, gather and lift the dough with your hands and turn it over in the bowl, so that it picks up the loose flour at the bottom. Turn over the dough several times until all of the loose flour is mixed in.

Dump the dough onto a work surface and pat it into a layer about 1 inch thick. Using a 3 inch round biscuit cutter, cut out biscuits and place them close together on a baking sheet. Gently bring together the dough scraps, pat them into a layer about 1 inch thick and cut our more biscuits until all of the dough is used up. You should have 8 biscuits total. (At this point, the biscuits can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for up to 1 week. Proceed as directed, baking the biscuits directly from the freezer and adding 5 to 10 minutes to the baking time.)

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, although mine didn't take that long, or until the biscuits are entirely golden brown. While biscuits are baking, brown the remaining butter and brush the tops of the biscuits with the butter when biscuits are done.

Friday, January 7, 2011

Momma Deiss's Pumpkin Cake v. Fine Cooking's Brown Butter Pumpkin Cake


Jonathan is my best friend of 16 years. Lord, that's a long time. Seems like just yesterday he had long hair, abs and listened to Nirvana over and over and over. ugh.

A couple of years ago, his mother generously gave me a couple of their family recipes -- whoopie pies, which I had never heard of until I met Jonathan, and the famous pumpkin cake. Every month or so, JD (Jonathan) would request I make the cake. Then this gorgeous photo on the cover of Fine Cooking of another pumpkin cake said, 'Make me! Make me!' So I did. And it had brown butter in it. And I was happy.

In my opinion, the Fine Cooking cake wins out (the cake on the right). The cake comes out more evenly baked, it's crazy moist, and the brown butter is a tantalizing addition to the frosting, plus there's less sugar.
Of course, Jonathan stands by his mother's. He kind of has to. He would be a bad son if he didn't.
Click here for recipe.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Pan de Muerto for a Day of the Dead Party

Pan de Muerto is the bread made for Dia de los Muertos, Mexico's Day of the Dead.
This is a holiday I can get behind. I'm the kind of girl who if she could time travel would not go to the future, but to the past. I'm the girl who designed cemeteries in grad school. I'm the girl who traveled around North Carolina, Georgia and Florida making rubbings and molds of ancestors' gravestones. It took me 12 years of living in LA to get around to celebrating this holiday. I'm not the biggest Halloween fan - making a costume is just too much trouble, yet spending a weekend planning a party and several hours making bread, well, that I'll do!

I found this recipe in Fine Cooking:
http://www.finecooking.com/recipes/pan-de-muerto.aspx?

How could I resist making something so adorable? I made a few mistakes along the way - like turning the oven on prematurely during the bread's second rising (I put it in there because with the pilot light on it's nice and warm). I also made a mess of the 'bones' that decorate the top of the bread. Oh well. The bread didn't seem to suffer any for not completing the second rising or not having perfect bones. This bread is similar in texture to challah and brioche but with the lovely addition of orange. Through a sleepy sugar coma, induced by cherry cordial, 2 kinds of hot chocolate, one being spiked with bourbon, and double chocolate cookies my guests made it to the grand finale - the Pan de Muerto! Check it out.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

The 24 Hour Chocolate Chip Cookie


Don't let these pretties fool you. They're not that good. 

I believed the hype. A guy I worked with said they were amazing and had a party devoted to them. The New York Times featured a three page article on them. The last straw was an email from Tasting Table highlighting David Lebovitz's recipe for them. Yeah, I don't get it.
Supposedly, letting the dough refrigerate from 12-24 hours greatly improves our beloved chocolate chip cookie. Bah. I was expecting a truly sensational cookie. A mesmerizing blend of flavors, a melt in your mouth epiphany. My coworkers happily played test testers to my efforts and while they did indeed hastily eat them, I wanted an 'eyes rolling into the back of the head' kind of reaction. Didn't happen.Maybe my expectations were too high?
I don't know, but I went back to making this recipe I found a couple of years ago in the Los Angeles Times, not to be confused with the aforementioned New York Times. Ahem. This cookie has been presented to us by the fabulous LA eatery, Milk. Check 'em out.
Milk's Ooey-Gooey Double Chocolate Cookies
Servings: 1 1/2 dozen
Adapted from Milk.

1/4 pound (4 ounces) unsweetened chocolate
4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) butter
3 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup flour
2 tablespoons Valrhona cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 pound Valrhona bittersweet chocolate (chunks or chips)
1-3/4 cup chopped, roasted walnuts

1. In a bowl set over a pot of simmering water, melt the unsweetened chocolate and butter. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.
2. In the bowl of a mixer with a paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using a fork, combine the eggs, vanilla and sugar. Mix just until incorporated and set aside.
3. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt into a medium bowl. Set aside.
4. Add the melted chocolate to the egg mixture and mix just until combined. Stir in the sifted dry ingredients and mix just until combined, then stir in the bittersweet chocolate and walnuts.
5. Cover the batter with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to chill thoroughly. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
6. Divide the dough into 18 portions. Grease your hands (to prevent the dough from sticking) and shape the portions into balls. Place the balls on a greased, parchment-lined sheet pan, leaving 2 to 3 inches between each.
7. Bake until the edges of the cookies are just set and the center is still soft, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. Place the cookies, still on the parchment, on a rack and cool completely before serving. They will be very soft.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Southern Cakes: Coconut Layer Cake or the "Coconut Butterball Cake"


I am constantly sifting through recipes for Southern cakes. I have a quite the collection: Caramel, Lady Baltimore, Hummingbird. And I intend to make them all. It's only fitting that the part of the country with the biggest sweet tooth has such an amazing cake tradition. Coconut moved to the top of the list when I saw an episode of America's Test Kitchen on PBS featuring the Coconut Layer Cake. I love anything to do with coconut. I am particularly enthusiastic about the use of coconut oil as a lotion. I could slather that stuff on all day.

Back on topic, Brooke. The adorable Christopher Kimball and Bridget Lancaster were looking for ways to intensify the flavor of coconut within the cake itself. Usually, you get lots of coconut punch in the frosting, but not so much in the cake. Their solution was to add canned cream of coconut. Between the cream of coconut, the coconut extract and the toasted coconut on top, the coconut flavor really does come through. So no worries there. Of course, the thing I couldn't get over with this cake was the amount of butter used in the buttercream frosting. I guess I took the 'butter' in 'buttercream' for granted all these years. Or maybe I should say, I lived in blissful ignorance.

So. I guess you're probably wondering if you should make this cake. Yes, it will take up most of your day, and yes, there are a lot of ingredients, but this is a beautiful cake with great flavor, especially if you're a lover of coconut. And butter. Of course. Don't even think about making cupcakes instead.


Coconut Layer Cake from America's Test Kitchen
Makes one 9-inch, 4-layer cake
Cream of coconut is often found in the soda and drink-mix aisle in the grocery store. One 15-ounce can is enough for both the cake and the buttercream; make sure to stir it well before using because it separates upon standing.
Ingredients
Cake
  • 1 large egg
  • 5 large egg whites
  • 3/4 cup cream of coconut
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon coconut extract
  • 2 1/4 cups cake flour (9 ounces), sifted
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon table salt
  • 12 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), cut into 12 pieces, softened, but still cool
  • 2 cups packed sweetened shredded coconut (about 8 ounces)
Buttercream
  • 4 large egg whites
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  •   pinch table salt
  • 1 pound unsalted butter (4 sticks), each stick cut into 6 pieces, softened, but still cool
  • 1/4 cup cream of coconut
  • 1 teaspoon coconut extract
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
  • 1. For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease two 9-inch round cake pans with shortening and dust with flour.
  • 2. Beat egg whites and whole egg in large measuring cup with fork to combine. Add cream of coconut, water, vanilla, and coconut extract and beat with fork until thoroughly combined.
  • 3. Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in bowl of standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Mix on lowest speed to combine, about 30 seconds. With mixer still running on lowest speed, add butter 1 piece at a time, then beat until mixture resembles coarse meal, with butter bits no larger than small peas, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes.
  • 4. With mixer still running, add 1 cup liquid. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy, about 45 seconds. With mixer still running, add remaining 1 cup liquid in steady stream (this should take about 15 seconds). Stop mixer and scrape down bowl with rubber spatula, then beat at medium-high speed to combine, about 15 seconds. (Batter will be thick.)
  • 5. Divide batter between cake pans and level with offset or rubber spatula. Bake until deep golden brown, cakes pull away from sides of pans, and toothpick inserted into center of cakes comes out clean, about 30 minutes (rotate cakes after about 20 minutes). Do not turn off oven.
  • 6. Cool in pans on wire racks about 10 minutes, then loosen cakes from sides of pans with paring knife, invert cakes onto racks and then re-invert; cool to room temperature.
  • 7. While cakes are cooling, spread shredded coconut on rimmed baking sheet; toast in oven until shreds are a mix of golden brown and white, about 15 to 20 minutes, stirring 2 or 3 times. Cool to room temperature.
  • 8. For the Buttercream: Combine whites, sugar, and salt in bowl of standing mixer; set bowl over saucepan containing 1 1/2-inches of barely simmering water. Whisk constantly until mixture is opaque and warm to the touch and registers about 120 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes.
  • 9. Transfer bowl to mixer and beat whites on high speed with whisk attachment until barely warm (about 80 degrees) and whites are glossy and sticky, about 7 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-high and beat in butter 1 piece at a time. Beat in cream of coconut and coconut and vanilla extracts. Stop mixer and scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Continue to beat at medium-high speed until well-combined, about 1 minute.
  • 10. To Assemble the Cake: Follow illustrations in chart below. Cut into slices and serve. (Wrap leftover cake in plastic and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before serving.) 

Monday, October 11, 2010

U-pick Farms and Canning in Little Rock, CA


I don't advise you go picking fruit in the desert during the hottest weekend of the year. BUT you might get a deep-fried Twinkie and venison jerkie out of it if you stop by Charlie Brown Farms.
http://www.charliebrownfarms.com/
Both exceeded expectations.

Admittedly, Alissa, my co-canner and wanna-be farmer for the day (also sporting a horrified look that I was actually going to eat that Twinkie!), and I did have a good time although threatened with heat stroke, overly amorous dogs and unripened fruit. We managed to get enough fruit for batches of apple and plum butter, spiced peaches with vanilla, and peach liqueur. Truly, a bumper crop. 

Plum Butter  from "Well Preserved: Small Batch Preserving for the New Cook" by Mary Anne Dragan

Makes 5 to 6 8oz jars

"Serve this mellow, richly flavored butter with roast pork or turkey, or as a spread on fruit or nut quick breads."

12 cups coarsely chopped, pitted plums (we used sugar plums)
1 cup water
4 cups sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cloves

Combine the plums and water in your preserving pot. cover and simmer over medium heat for about 20 minutes, or until the plums are tender. Stir occasionally. Remove from heat. Puree in food processor.

Prepare the preserving jars.

Return the puree to the preserving pot. Stir in the sugar until iti is dissolved. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring almost constantly, for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the mixture is somewhat thickened. Stir in the spices during the last 10 to 15 minutes of the cooking time. Test for doneness if desired.
Remove from heat. Spoon the butter into hot, sterilized jars, leaving a 1/4" head space. Release the air bubbles. Wipe the rims clean. Seal according to manufacturer's directions. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Boiled Peanuts



Apparently, you might be a redneck if....
-You're from Ocala, Florida which among other things has a drag-racing museum.
-The swamp was your playground as a child.
-And, you boll your own peanuts. (No, that isn't a typo, that's the way my Momma says it. It just doesn't sound right any other way.)
Or so I'm told.
I would totally disagree, because:
1. I have never stepped foot in that museum!
2. The swamp was just there. What's the difference between a very wet playground filled with gators and sidewalks with fast-moving cars and homeless folks?
3. I am only boiling my own peanuts because I can't get them out here. And since when does making something yourself make you a hick? It's not like I've got a moonshine still out back, although I totally want one!
If these things make me a redneck then I'm cool with that.





















Anyway, back to the peanuts.
It takes 16 whole hours. Yep, 16. 8 happened while I was sleeping, 'cause soakin' is best done unconsciously. Other than the time, boiling peanuts ain't so bad. It does take a lot of your attention, but it ranks low on a difficulty scale. Water and salt are your only other ingredients.
I hear tell that boiled peanuts actually have some health value as boiling releases phytochemicals and maintains the presence of reservatrol (associated with the reduction of heart disease). Whew, those are some mighty fancy words, but that new internet thing says those are good things.
I had a lovely vision of myself stirring a big pot over an open flame, me in my flannel and boots, but I live in an apartment so my vivid imagination would have to do. Plus, you need friends and beer to help you wile away the time. Maybe next year.

Lee Brothers recipe for boiled peanuts.