Pan de Muerto for a Day of the Dead Party

Pan de Muerto is the bread made for Dia de los Muertos, Mexico's Day of the Dead.
This is a holiday I can get behind. I'm the kind of girl who if she could time travel would not go to the future, but to the past. I'm the girl who designed cemeteries in grad school. I'm the girl who traveled around North Carolina, Georgia and Florida making rubbings and molds of ancestors' gravestones. It took me 12 years of living in LA to get around to celebrating this holiday. I'm not the biggest Halloween fan - making a costume is just too much trouble, yet spending a weekend planning a party and several hours making bread, well, that I'll do!

I found this recipe in Fine Cooking:
http://www.finecooking.com/recipes/pan-de-muerto.aspx?

How could I resist making something so adorable? I made a few mistakes along the way - like turning the oven on prematurely during the bread's second rising (I put it in there because with the pilot light on it's nice and warm). I also made a mess of the 'bones' that decorate the top of the bread. Oh well. The bread didn't seem to suffer any for not completing the second rising or not having perfect bones. This bread is similar in texture to challah and brioche but with the lovely addition of orange. Through a sleepy sugar coma, induced by cherry cordial, 2 kinds of hot chocolate, one being spiked with bourbon, and double chocolate cookies my guests made it to the grand finale - the Pan de Muerto! Check it out.

The 24 Hour Chocolate Chip Cookie

Don't let these pretties fool you. They're not that good. 

I believed the hype. A guy I worked with said they were amazing and had a party devoted to them. The New York Times featured a three page article on them. The last straw was an email from Tasting Table highlighting David Lebovitz's recipe for them. Yeah, I don't get it.
Supposedly, letting the dough refrigerate from 12-24 hours greatly improves our beloved chocolate chip cookie. Bah. I was expecting a truly sensational cookie. A mesmerizing blend of flavors, a melt in your mouth epiphany. My coworkers happily played test testers to my efforts and while they did indeed hastily eat them, I wanted an 'eyes rolling into the back of the head' kind of reaction. Didn't happen.Maybe my expectations were too high?
I don't know, but I went back to making this recipe I found a couple of years ago in the Los Angeles Times, not to be confused with the aforementioned New York Times. Ahem. This cookie has been presented to us by the fabulous LA eatery, Milk. Check 'em out.

Milk's Ooey-Gooey Double Chocolate Cookies
Servings: 1 1/2 dozen
Adapted from Milk.

1/4 pound (4 ounces) unsweetened chocolate
4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) butter
3 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup flour
2 tablespoons Valrhona cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 pound Valrhona bittersweet chocolate (chunks or chips)
1-3/4 cup chopped, roasted walnuts

1. In a bowl set over a pot of simmering water, melt the unsweetened chocolate and butter. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.
2. In the bowl of a mixer with a paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using a fork, combine the eggs, vanilla and sugar. Mix just until incorporated and set aside.
3. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt into a medium bowl. Set aside.
4. Add the melted chocolate to the egg mixture and mix just until combined. Stir in the sifted dry ingredients and mix just until combined, then stir in the bittersweet chocolate and walnuts.
5. Cover the batter with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to chill thoroughly. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
6. Divide the dough into 18 portions. Grease your hands (to prevent the dough from sticking) and shape the portions into balls. Place the balls on a greased, parchment-lined sheet pan, leaving 2 to 3 inches between each.
7. Bake until the edges of the cookies are just set and the center is still soft, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. Place the cookies, still on the parchment, on a rack and cool completely before serving. They will be very soft.

Southern Cakes: Coconut Layer Cake or the "Coconut Butterball Cake"

I am constantly sifting through recipes for Southern cakes. I have a quite the collection: Caramel, Lady Baltimore, Hummingbird. And I intend to make them all. It's only fitting that the part of the country with the biggest sweet tooth has such an amazing cake tradition. Coconut moved to the top of the list when I saw an episode of America's Test Kitchen on PBS featuring the Coconut Layer Cake. I love anything to do with coconut. I am particularly enthusiastic about the use of coconut oil as a lotion. I could slather that stuff on all day.

Back on topic, Brooke. The adorable Christopher Kimball and Bridget Lancaster were looking for ways to intensify the flavor of coconut within the cake itself. Usually, you get lots of coconut punch in the frosting, but not so much in the cake. Their solution was to add canned cream of coconut. Between the cream of coconut, the coconut extract and the toasted coconut on top, the coconut flavor really does come through. So no worries there. Of course, the thing I couldn't get over with this cake was the amount of butter used in the buttercream frosting. I guess I took the 'butter' in 'buttercream' for granted all these years. Or maybe I should say, I lived in blissful ignorance.

So. I guess you're probably wondering if you should make this cake. Yes, it will take up most of your day, and yes, there are a lot of ingredients, but this is a beautiful cake with great flavor, especially if you're a lover of coconut. And butter. Of course. Don't even think about making cupcakes instead.

Coconut Layer Cake from America's Test Kitchen

Makes one 9-inch, 4-layer cake

Cream of coconut is often found in the soda and drink-mix aisle in the grocery store. One 15-ounce can is enough for both the cake and the buttercream; make sure to stir it well before using because it separates upon standing.

Ingredients

Cake

• 1 large egg
• 5 large egg whites
• 3/4 cup cream of coconut
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon coconut extract
• 2 1/4 cups cake flour (9 ounces), sifted
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 3/4 teaspoon table salt
• 12 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), cut into 12 pieces, softened, but still cool
• 2 cups packed sweetened shredded coconut (about 8 ounces)

Buttercream

• 4 large egg whites
• 1 cup granulated sugar
•   pinch table salt
• 1 pound unsalted butter (4 sticks), each stick cut into 6 pieces, softened, but still cool
• 1/4 cup cream of coconut
• 1 teaspoon coconut extract
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Instructions

• 1. For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease two 9-inch round cake pans with shortening and dust with flour.
• 2. Beat egg whites and whole egg in large measuring cup with fork to combine. Add cream of coconut, water, vanilla, and coconut extract and beat with fork until thoroughly combined.
• 3. Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in bowl of standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Mix on lowest speed to combine, about 30 seconds. With mixer still running on lowest speed, add butter 1 piece at a time, then beat until mixture resembles coarse meal, with butter bits no larger than small peas, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes.
• 4. With mixer still running, add 1 cup liquid. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy, about 45 seconds. With mixer still running, add remaining 1 cup liquid in steady stream (this should take about 15 seconds). Stop mixer and scrape down bowl with rubber spatula, then beat at medium-high speed to combine, about 15 seconds. (Batter will be thick.)
• 5. Divide batter between cake pans and level with offset or rubber spatula. Bake until deep golden brown, cakes pull away from sides of pans, and toothpick inserted into center of cakes comes out clean, about 30 minutes (rotate cakes after about 20 minutes). Do not turn off oven.
• 6. Cool in pans on wire racks about 10 minutes, then loosen cakes from sides of pans with paring knife, invert cakes onto racks and then re-invert; cool to room temperature.
• 7. While cakes are cooling, spread shredded coconut on rimmed baking sheet; toast in oven until shreds are a mix of golden brown and white, about 15 to 20 minutes, stirring 2 or 3 times. Cool to room temperature.
• 8. For the Buttercream: Combine whites, sugar, and salt in bowl of standing mixer; set bowl over saucepan containing 1 1/2-inches of barely simmering water. Whisk constantly until mixture is opaque and warm to the touch and registers about 120 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes.
• 9. Transfer bowl to mixer and beat whites on high speed with whisk attachment until barely warm (about 80 degrees) and whites are glossy and sticky, about 7 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-high and beat in butter 1 piece at a time. Beat in cream of coconut and coconut and vanilla extracts. Stop mixer and scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Continue to beat at medium-high speed until well-combined, about 1 minute.
• 10. To Assemble the Cake: Follow illustrations in chart below. Cut into slices and serve. (Wrap leftover cake in plastic and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before serving.) 

U-pick Farms and Canning in Little Rock, CA

I don't advise you go picking fruit in the desert during the hottest weekend of the year. BUT you might get a deep-fried Twinkie and venison jerkie out of it if you stop by Charlie Brown Farms.
http://www.charliebrownfarms.com/
Both exceeded expectations.

Admittedly, Alissa, my co-canner and wanna-be farmer for the day (also sporting a horrified look that I was actually going to eat that Twinkie!), and I did have a good time although threatened with heat stroke, overly amorous dogs and unripened fruit. We managed to get enough fruit for batches of apple and plum butter, spiced peaches with vanilla, and peach liqueur. Truly, a bumper crop. 

Plum Butter  from "Well Preserved: Small Batch Preserving for the New Cook" by Mary Anne Dragan

Makes 5 to 6 8oz jars

"Serve this mellow, richly flavored butter with roast pork or turkey, or as a spread on fruit or nut quick breads."

12 cups coarsely chopped, pitted plums (we used sugar plums)
1 cup water
4 cups sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cloves

Combine the plums and water in your preserving pot. cover and simmer over medium heat for about 20 minutes, or until the plums are tender. Stir occasionally. Remove from heat. Puree in food processor.

Prepare the preserving jars.

Return the puree to the preserving pot. Stir in the sugar until iti is dissolved. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring almost constantly, for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the mixture is somewhat thickened. Stir in the spices during the last 10 to 15 minutes of the cooking time. Test for doneness if desired.
Remove from heat. Spoon the butter into hot, sterilized jars, leaving a 1/4" head space. Release the air bubbles. Wipe the rims clean. Seal according to manufacturer's directions. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.

Boiled Peanuts

Apparently, you might be a redneck if....
-You're from Ocala, Florida which among other things has a drag-racing museum.
-The swamp was your playground as a child.
-And, you boll your own peanuts. (No, that isn't a typo, that's the way my Momma says it. It just doesn't sound right any other way.)
Or so I'm told.
I would totally disagree, because:
1. I have never stepped foot in that museum!
2. The swamp was just there. What's the difference between a very wet playground filled with gators and sidewalks with fast-moving cars and homeless folks?
3. I am only boiling my own peanuts because I can't get them out here. And since when does making something yourself make you a hick? It's not like I've got a moonshine still out back, although I totally want one!
If these things make me a redneck then I'm cool with that.

Anyway, back to the peanuts.
It takes 16 whole hours. Yep, 16. 8 happened while I was sleeping, 'cause soakin' is best done unconsciously. Other than the time, boiling peanuts ain't so bad. It does take a lot of your attention, but it ranks low on a difficulty scale. Water and salt are your only other ingredients.
I hear tell that boiled peanuts actually have some health value as boiling releases phytochemicals and maintains the presence of reservatrol (associated with the reduction of heart disease). Whew, those are some mighty fancy words, but that new internet thing says those are good things.
I had a lovely vision of myself stirring a big pot over an open flame, me in my flannel and boots, but I live in an apartment so my vivid imagination would have to do. Plus, you need friends and beer to help you wile away the time. Maybe next year.

Lee Brothers recipe for boiled peanuts.

The 100th Fan Contest

My friend, Jed Weiss, in Brooklyn, NY won the 100th Facebook Fan contest! Congrats, Jed! Isn't his little girl adorable?!
What does he win, you say? Well, now that you mention it, he wins the BEST EVER Banana Bread!! Delivered right to his door courtesy of the USPS!!!
Thanks to everyone who posted my page on their Facebook walls, ahem, my mother and my cousin-once-removed. You guys really know how to make a girl feel special!

Family & Dumplings

So you know when you're just having a hard time and home is 3,000 miles away? When the place you live will never feel like a breeze swaying the Spanish moss or sound like cicada humming their way through your day or rain cooling off your afternoon?

My family, as far away as they are, came through for me this week. Even relatives that I'm not all that close to, went out of their way to try and help me out. I think I need to call out to home more often, hearing those accents, ones tinged with country, while they make me ache, are also a comfort. Letting me know that yes, they're still there and I can 'come on home' anytime I want.

Well maybe you've never left home or maybe home became somewhere other than the place you were born, but we all have food that reminds us of home - wherever that is or however you choose to define it.
A food that reminds me of family is dumplings. My Momma makes big fat ones and my grandmother made small, noodle-like dumplings. Both were/are delicious.
I found this recipe for Chicken n' Dumplings on Smitten Kitchen a couple of years ago and it's one of my favorite dishes to cook for guests.

Chicken and Dumplings with Leeks and Tarragon
From Smitten Kitchen via Cook’s Illustrated
CI notes that you should not use low-fat or fat-free milk in this recipe, and that you should start the dumpling dough only when you’re ready to top the stew with the dumplings.

Serves 6 to 8
Stew
5 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Table salt and ground black pepper
4 teaspoons vegetable oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter (1/2 stick)
2 medium leeks , white and llight green parts only, cut in half lengthwise and then into 1-inch pieces
1 large onion, minced
6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup dry sherry
4 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
2 bay leaves
1 cup frozen green peas
3 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon leaves

Dumplings
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon table salt
1 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons reserved chicken fat (or unsalted butter)

1. For the stew: Pat the chicken dry with paper towels, then season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of the chicken and cook until golden on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and remove the browned skin. Pour off the chicken fat and reserve. Return the pot to medium-high heat and repeat with the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and the remaining chicken. Pour off and reserve any chicken fat.
2. Add the butter to the Dutch oven and melt over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, onion, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the flour. Whisk in the sherry, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the broth, milk, thyme, and bay leaves. Nestle the chicken, with any accumulated juices, into the pot. Cover and simmer until the chicken is fully cooked and tender, about 1 hour.
3. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Discard the bay leaves. Allow the sauce to settle for a few minutes, then skim the fat from the surface using a wide spoon. Shred the chicken, discarding the bones, then return it to the stew.
4. For the dumplings: Stir the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Microwave the milk and fat in a microwave-safe bowl on high until just warm (do not over-heat), about 1 minute. Stir the warmed milk mixture into the flour mixture with a wooden spoon until incorporated and smooth.
5. Return the stew to a simmer, stir in the peas and tarragon, and season with salt and pepper. Following the steps below, drop golf-ball-sized dumplings over the top of the stew, about 1/4 inch apart (you should have about 18 dumplings). Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the dumplings have doubled in size, 15 to 18 minutes. Serve.

To make the dumplings: Gather a golf-ball-sized portion of the dumpling batter onto a soup spoon, then push the dumpling onto the stew using a second spoon. Cover the stew with the dumplings, leaving about 1/4 inch between each. When fully cooked, the dumplings will have doubled in size.